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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, nestled high among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the family totally surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small shop earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.